Narrow banded wave propagation from very deep waters to the shore Articles uri icon

publication date

  • July 2013

start page

  • 140

end page

  • 150


  • 77

International Standard Serial Number (ISSN)

  • 0378-3839


  • A fully nonlinear Boussinessq-type model with several free coefficients is considered as a departure point. The model is monolayer and low order so as to simplify numerical solvability. The coefficients of the model are here considered functions of the local water depth. In doing so, we allow to improve the dispersive and shoaling properties for narrow banded wave trains in very deep waters. In particular, for monochromatic waves the dispersion and shoaling errors are bounded by similar to 2.8% up to kh = 100, being k the wave number and h the water depth. The proposed model is fully nonlinear in weakly dispersive conditions, so that nonlinear wave decomposition in shallower waters is well reproduced. The model equations are numerically solved using a fourth order scheme and tested against analytical solutions and experimental data.


  • Chemistry
  • Environment


  • boussinesq-type equations; linear dispersion and shoaling; numerical schemes.; phase-resolving wave propagation models